Over the years, Puebla has quietly become one of the most important producing regions in Mexico and even surpassed Oaxaca in terms of productivity. There is so much here we’re excited about and looking forward to growing for years to come. 2023 was our first year buying from Puebla, and the potential is palpable. We’re excited to make sure these coffees get the differentiation they deserve.
The profile in Zongozotla is special, influenced by local varieties, a very particular microclimate, and immaculate processing. Being so far north we see a later, slower ripening period similar to Coatepec in Veracruz. These coffees are grown in a densely forested river valley that grades straight up. They’re not just shade-grown, they’re grown in the midst of a cool, lush tropical forest.
Zapotitlan de Mendez is divided into 2 areas by the Zempoala River, the northern area with strong Totonaca influence and the southern area with strong Nahuatl influence. Producers from Zongozotla are of Totonaca descent, with deeply-rooted ancestral customs including traditional clothing and language. In this culture, older people are treated with great respect and are called “Nana” (a respectful Totonaca way to name an old woman) and “Tata” (a respectful Totonaca way to name an old man). In the case of other southern areas such as Cuautempan or Zacatlan, the producers usually speak Nahuatl and Spanish and share a deep pride for their heritage.
One thing that makes the state of Puebla unique in Mexico is that it supports producers with agronomic education and resources. For instance, one project provided collapsible raised drying beds with ventilated airflow systems for producers to dry their coffee more evenly and consistently. This is well above and beyond the level of assistance we’ve seen for smallholder producers in Mexico, and it’s materially impacted the cup quality.
One thing the government hasn’t done is help producers sell their coffee. That’s where we’re able to step in and close the circle by bringing these to market. We’re offering community lots for high-end blends as well as premium community ID and producer ID lots, with full traceability at all tiers. These communities are working towards organic certification, and this will be the first year that they’re exporting their coffee in order to increase profitability and capture more value.
