Over the years, Puebla has quietly become one of the most important producing regions in Mexico and surpassed Oaxaca in terms of productivity. There is so much here we’re excited about and looking forward to growing for years to come. While this isn’t our first year buying from Puebla, these coffees are undeniable and it’s our first time making sure they get the differentiation they deserve.
The main region we’re focused on is Zapotitlan de Mendez in the Northwestern Sierra of Puebla. The profile in Zapotitlan de Mendez is special, influenced by local varieties, a very particular microclimate, and immaculate processing. Here we see the Garnica variety which brings a very sweet cup with sharper citric acidity, as well as classic Caturra, Bourbon, and Typica with just a little of the newer hybrids like Catimor mixed in. Being so far north we see a later, slower ripening period similar to Coatepec in Veracruz. These coffees are grown all the way up to 1800 masl, starting in a densely forested river valley and grading straight up. They’re not just shade-grown, they’re grown in the midst of a cool, lush tropical forest. The end profile offers tangerine- or grapefruit-like citrus acidity supported by fantastically sweet sugar browning notes like amber honey and caramel, as well as sweet, round dried fruit notes like red raisin and dried cranberry.
Zapotitlan de Mendez shares a mountain range with Veracruz, a region that is such a major driver of Mexico’s coffee trade that Zapotitlan coffees are often trucked over the border and sold as Veracruz—a story resembling some of the finest Ethiopia regions like Agaro that have gained their own distinction over time. We see that distinction clearly in Puebla, where the coffees are calling out to share their singular cup profile as well as the communal investment that goes into them.
We’re working with a group that’s sourcing in 5 communities, each led by strong women leaders. One thing that makes the state of Puebla unique in Mexico is that it supports producers with agronomic education and resources. For instance, one project provided collapsible raised drying beds with ventilated airflow systems for producers to dry their coffee more evenly and consistently. This is well above and beyond the level of assistance we’ve seen for smallholder producers in Mexico, and it’s materially impacted the cup quality.
One thing the government hasn’t done is help producers sell their coffee. That’s where we’re able to step in and close the circle by bringing these to market. We’re offering community lots for high-end blends as well as premium community ID and producer ID lots, with full traceability at all tiers. These communities are working towards organic certification, and this will be the first year that they’re exporting their coffee in order to increase profitability and capture more value.
Interested in sourcing coffee with us? Reach out at info@redfoxcoffeemerchants.com. To learn more about our work, check out our journal and follow us on Instagram @redfoxcoffeemerchants, Twitter @redfoxcoffee, Spotify, and YouTube. |